Merino Yarn, Care and Local Production
Extrafine Merino wool sits at the intersection of comfort and performance. It is fine enough to feel soft against bare skin, while still regulating temperature, managing moisture and resisting odours better than many synthetic fibres. At Pamuuc, we choose extrafine Merino (<18 microns) for knitwear because the handfeel, durability and documentation can support a piece meant to be worn for years.
What makes Merino different from regular wool
Not all wool performs the same. Standard wool fibres measure between 28 and 35 microns in diameter, thick enough that many people experience the characteristic scratchiness against sensitive skin. This sensation occurs because fibres wider than about 25 microns trigger pain receptors in the skin, creating that uncomfortable prickling feeling that has defined "itchy wool" in popular memory.
Merino sheep, originally bred from Spanish stock and now raised in several regions, naturally produce finer fibres. Standard Merino typically ranges from 20 to 24 microns, already noticeably softer than conventional wool. Below 18 microns, the fibre diameter becomes fine enough for a much softer handfeel. The result is drape rather than bulk, breathability rather than heaviness, and a textile that can sit close to the body comfortably.
Beyond handfeel, Merino offers performance characteristics that matter in everyday wear. The fibre's natural crimp and protein structure allow it to absorb moisture vapour before it begins to feel wet. It helps move that moisture away from skin and release it into the air, keeping you comfortable whether you're layering under a coat or wearing a piece solo on a cool evening. Merino also resists odour formation better than many fibres, which means your favourite sweater stays fresher between washes than cotton or synthetic equivalents.
Extrafine: why microns matter
Extrafine Merino (<18 microns) is not simply a marketing category. It is a measurable threshold that changes how the yarn feels and behaves. At this fineness, the garment can feel softer while still retaining recovery and structure when knitted well. In practice, extrafine garments tend to pill less than coarser wool and hold their shape better when washed gently.
Finer yarns can also take colour beautifully. Because the individual fibres scatter light differently when they are thinner, darker colours often appear rich without feeling heavy. For a brand built on considered basics, this matters. A knit should age quietly, not fade into something anonymous after a few wears.
Dimensionally, extrafine yarns exhibit superior stability. Coarser fibres relax and bloom over time, gradually increasing the garment's surface area and causing slight shrinkage and loss of definition. Extrafine Merino resists this relaxation, meaning the fit you buy remains the fit you wear months later. This stability underpins the whole philosophy of investing in fewer, better pieces.
How Pamuuc sources and selects yarn
We work with extrafine Merino selected for handfeel, colour depth and dimensional stability. The fineness specification (<18 microns) is a requirement for our knitwear yarns. We review micron count documentation for each lot, and we review OEKO-TEX reports where they apply to the dye batches used in our yarns. This is a batch by batch assertion backed by third party lab reports, not a blanket claim applied across the whole collection.
We confirm REACH compliance (European chemical regulations) for the finished yarn, ensuring no substances of very high concern above agreed thresholds. Again, these certifications are attached to specific orders. We state what we can verify and nothing beyond it.
Made with Sompunt in Lleida
Once we've selected the yarn, it moves to Sompunt, a knitwear production house based in L'Espluga Calba, in the province of Lleida, roughly 160 kilometres west of Barcelona. Sompunt has been knitting since 1969, and the company still operates as an integrated production facility where knitting, linking (seaming), washing, and finishing all happen under one roof.
This proximity and integration matter practically. Because the entire production process is visible to us, we can review samples in real time, adjust gauge and tension to match our specifications, and work through fit iterations without the communication delays that characterise offshore production. If a knit is running slightly loose, we can modify the machine tension the same afternoon and rerun a test piece. If we're unhappy with how a collar is sitting, we have a conversation with the team rather than sending notes through email chains and waiting weeks for revised samples.
Local production reflects our belief that proximity enables honesty. We know the conditions where our pieces are made because we visit regularly. We can speak about our production with specificity because we've actually seen it happen. Learn more about how we work with Sompunt.
Standards and certifications: what we can say and what we can't
OEKO-TEX certification on our yarn batch confirms that the dyes used met restricted substance standards at the time of testing. It does not certify the entire supply chain, the farming practices of the wool producers, or the environmental impact of production. It's one data point, not a comprehensive story.
REACH compliance confirms that the finished yarn contains no banned or restricted substances above agreed limits under European regulations. This matters for safety and regulatory compliance, but it doesn't certify sustainable practices or ethical labour. It's a chemical safety floor, not a claims platform.
We don't use certifications as blanket claims. If a standard has not been confirmed for a particular colour or production run, we do not apply it as a default. For a fuller picture of our approach, visit our transparency page.
How to care for your Merino knitwear
Merino's performance depends partly on how you treat it. With consistent, gentle care a Pamuuc piece will retain its softness, colour, and fit for years.
Washing: Use cold water or 30°C maximum on a wool or delicates cycle. Wash only when necessary. Merino resists odour, so a sweater worn once probably does not need immediate washing.
Detergent: Use a mild detergent made for wool. Standard laundry detergents can be too harsh for wool. Avoid bleach and fabric softener entirely; both compromise the fibre structure.
Drying: Never wring or twist your knitwear. Gently squeeze out excess water, then lay the piece flat on a clean towel to dry, reshaping it gently to match its original dimensions. Never hang Merino to dry; the weight of water can stretch it out of shape.
Storage: Once fully dry, fold and store flat. Avoid airtight storage. Merino does best with regular air circulation.
Pilling: Extrafine Merino usually resists pilling better than coarser wool, but light pilling can occur on high friction areas with regular wear. Use a fabric comb designed for delicate textiles. A gentle, light stroke in one direction will lift pills away without damaging the fibre.
When our winter knitwear is live, the same yarn standards apply across the Merino wool collection. For summer, the same material discipline appears in pieces like the Linen Shirt.
